Blocky, 3 to 4-lobed, medium size, green to red fruits. Strongly branched with good cover. Plants are less apt to make too many peppers in the initial crown set, resulting in a higher percentage of smooth, thick-walled fruits.
Peppers hold well into the sweet red stage.
Days to Maturity or Bloom: 60 green, 80 red ripe
Packet: 25 seeds. 3.00
CULTURE: Well-drained, fertile soil with abundant phosphorus and calcium is best.
GROWING SEEDLINGS: Sow seed in shallow flats, 4 seeds/in., 1/4″ deep, in late March or about 8 weeks prior to transplanting outdoors. If possible, maintain soil temperatures 80-90°F (27-32°C). Pepper seeds germinate very slowly in cooler soil. When the first true leaves just show, transplant 2-3″ apart in flats or 2″ cell-type containers. (The use of 2″ or larger cells will produce larger plants with better-developed root systems.) Grow plants at approx. 70°F (21°C) day and 60°F (16°C) nights.
COLD TREATMENT: Exposing the seedlings to controlled cold treatments can increase the number of flowers and fruits. When the third true leaf appears, grow the plants at a minimum night temp. of 53-55°F (12-13°C) for 4 weeks. The plants should receive full sunlight. After 4 weeks adjust temp. to 70°F (21°C) day and night. If this technique is used, peppers should be seeded 1-2 weeks earlier than usual.
TRANSPLANTING: Transplant out after frost when the soil is warm and weather is settled. Ideal seedlings have buds, but no open flowers. Set plants 12-18″ apart in rows 24-36″ apart, or 2 rows on poly/paper mulch, 18″ between plants. Water-in transplants using a high phosphorus solution.
ROW COVERS: Cold weather is buffered and earliness increased by using plastic mulch, especially in combination with a slit row cover or lightweight fabric row cover supported by wire hoops. Remove row covers in sunny weather above 85°F (29°C) to prevent blossom drop and heat damage.
INSECT PESTS: Control climbing cutworms with bacillus thuringiensis, or with paper cylinder collars. Control tarnished plant bugs, aphids, and flea beetles with pyrethrin.
DISEASES AND PROBLEMS: To prevent bacterial spot and phytopthora, drip irrigate only, plant only in well-drained soils, minimize soil compaction, follow a 4-year crop rotation. Sunscald is caused by an inadequate foliage canopy. Prevent blossom end rot with adequate soil calcium and regular moisture. Big bushy plants with few peppers can be caused by an excess of nitrogen, hot or cold temperature extremes during the flowering period, tarnished plant bug injury, and choice of late, poorly-adapted varieties.
BACTERIAL SPOT NOTICE: Bacterial spot can be seed borne. All pepper seed lots are tested for bacterial spot, and any positive lots receive a chlorine wash No treatment can insure absolute freedom from disease.
NOTE: A disease-free test result does not guarantee a seed lot to be disease-free, only that in the sample tested, the pathogen targeted was not found.
HARVEST AND STORAGE: Pick the first peppers promptly when they reach full size to encourage further fruit set. Wash and hold at 45°F (7°C) and 95% humidity.